"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
- Mark Twain

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Përmet

After being sick all week (3 day week) a 4 day weekend was just what I needed. I woke up super early on Thursday morning to head to the bus station to catch our bus to Permet.  I spent the majority of my time on the bus blowing my nose. The main goal was to get all the crap out so that I could breath in all the fresh air that any city but Tirana, Durres, and Elbasan have to offer me. After having the luxury of renting cars and going at our own pace for all of our trips I wasn't sure I'd be happy on the bus. I wouldn't go as far as to say I enjoyed the bus ride, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be. For about an hour of it I had to pee like no other, even though I purposely wasn't drinking a lot of water. Luckily Adam was kind enough to ask the bus driver to stop for me and I ran into the gas station and peed. (No bathrooms on the buses here.) While in there I also happened to break the door of the stall and I thought I'd be trapped for quite some time, but I easily got out. At one point on the journey I looked out my window and noticed we were about an inch away from the ledge that was separating us from the rushing river. I closed my eyes, turned to Robert and said "That wasn't a close call at all. It's fine." He immedieatley started hysterically laughing at which point I told him, "sometimes you just have to lie to yourself and pretend everything is going to be okay." I may have to start living by this rule more often.

We stopped in the small village of Këlcyrë to do a quick hike up to the local castle. I was pretty hungry by this point (and in need of something to drink) so we went to a restaurant where, of course, Adam knew just about everyone. Adam lived in Përmet for two years and would often do work in Këlcyrë as well. After sharing 2 chickens, a salad, some bread, and some of the best fries ever, we looked outside and noticed it was pouring rain. So we ordered another drink. Halfway through, it quit raining, but by the time we had finished, it had started again, so we decided to suck it up and go for our hike in the rain. Along the way, Robert stopped to buy himself a very nice umbrella at a small local market. The hike up started fairly easy, and there were enough switchback that we were able to make it up the mountainside, and to the castle without any major issues. Along the way we pointed out all the shoes we found, and wondered to ourselves why there was so much trash on the trail to a deserted castle.

The next 20 minutes was spent exploring, climbing on, and probably ruining the castle. Part way through our explorations my camera decided to stop working (I assume due to an extreme amount of moisture) and overall there wasn't much to see, so we headed back down to continue our journey to Permet. The trip down was a bit more difficult. Firstly Mr. Robert's newly purchased umbrella was shed into pieces by the wind. Then we decided to take a "shortcut" or more better phrased as a fun slippery slide down a muddy mountain. Eventually, we made it down and after Robert showed the people at the store his umbrella they were kind enough to give him a new one for free  :)

Our next stop was just a short cab ride, on a partially finished road, away. Upon reaching Permet and Adam's in-law's apartment we were very kindly and warmly greeted by his mother in law. She quickly offered us some candied walnuts (so sweet and good) some candied oranges, some dried plums, and walnuts, almonds and hazelnuts, along with some champagne. Adam translated all of her questions and our answers about where were from, and our families. She just kept bringing out more items until we couldn't handle anymore. She agreed to meet us for dinner at her sister or brother's restaurant at 7 and we headed out for an evening coffee at one of Adams favorite places. The reason we decided to go there was because they have 50 lek (50 cent) hot chocolate. I quickly took advantage of the situation and ordered a hot chocolate and an espresso and poured one into the other. I love black coffee, but every once in awhile I enjoy a mocha. It is impossible to find a place that serves them, so you just have to make them on your own.
Mocha!
The walk to the restaurant was short, even though it was on the other side of town, and as we walked Adam pointed out important buildings in Permet. We were kindly greeted by the owners (part of Adams family) and were offered the warmest spot right next to the fire. They cooked our chicken and pork chops right over  some fresh hot coals, and served them up with some delicious veggies, bread, hot cheese dish, homemade wine, and some cinnamon and honey covered apples. All of this only cost us $5 each.
Homemade wine, which was delicious. 
Shortly after finishing our meal we began the walk back to the apartment, planning to stop to get food for our 10 mile hike the following day. Unfortunately all the markets were closed and we figured we wouldn't be able to hike ten miles if we left after the market opened the next morning  because it would get dark before we'd be safely down from the mountain. Going on trail that isn't well marked in the dark didn't seem very plausible or smart.  We also figured we couldn't hike 10 miles without food, so our super awesome plan was out.  I was a bit bummed, but realizing that the hike would be done in the cold and rain made it a bit un-appealing anyway. We planned, instead, on doing a short hike nearby, and headed home, at which point Adams mother-in-law pulled out every single blanket, towel, and pillow in the house to make sure we were comfortable. I slept like a baby for 10 hours, and was super glad I didn't have to wake up at 6am to start hiking. Vacation is about having fun, but it is also about relaxing.
Waterfall with trash.
Breakfast was a cheese and hot-dog like calzone from a Greek bakery, followed by a quick coffee nearby. The market was opened so we stopped to get some food for our lunch and headed toward the mountainside to hike to a nearby, and very old church. Along the way we had to pass over a flowing river, which led to a stop for a beer at Mr. Roberts request. Luckily for us, there was a nice unfinished concrete building for us to escape from the rain, for our 30 minute beer stop. Then we continued up the mountainside, passing another small river, and a mudslide. I'm not sure how Robert managed to get over the mudslide so easily, because after I made it across with his help, my pants, and part of my jacket were covered in mud. After this, the hike was a bit easier. We passed a gorgeous, trash filled waterfall, and eventually made our way to the courtyard of the church. Here we stopped for a delicious lunch of crackers, cheese, bake rolls, tuna, dried fruit, chips, and gin and lemonade. After all, we were on vacation.
Arches overlooking the gravestones.

Our lunching area plus some of the fresco

Adam went to go ask the key holder to let us in, while the rest of us explored the gorgeous fresco on the outside of the church. The plaster the fresco was painted on covered some very interesting stone, and I like to marvel at how old this stone probably was, considering how old the fresco on top of it was. Insane!
Door with the peeled back Fresco revealing the very old rock. 
Adam came back to inform us that they wouldn't let us inside and we were debating what to do next when the key holder came and let us in. She must have had a change of heart. The church was gorgeous. The walls were all covered in paintings and I was surprised how well I was able to see considering it was all natural light on a cloudy day. The sunlight roof was gorgeous. After 10 minutes we had explored enough and headed home. The trip down the mountain was much worse than the trip up. I basically had to ride down the mudslide and hope that I wouldn't get washed away in the mud covered rocks. Once we all arrived safely at the bottom we headed to get some pilaf, followed by some more delicious mocha to warm us up.
skylight and beautiful paintings. 
Home was met with a quick nap for a boys and a warm shower, followed by some music and reading time for myself. After our siesta we were ready for some food, so we headed out for some pasta and macaroons, followed quite quickly by us calling it another early night and heading home to pass out.
Our first furgon ride! 
After the bus ended up taking 6.5 hours (it was supposed to take 5), we opted to take the furgon home. I've heard some pretty bad things about furgons and assumed it would be fast, scary, and packed inside. The ride home was quite interesting, starting with our driver being stopped by a cop. We assumed they would want to check the van and possibly our bags, but instead the driver went and poked his head into the trunk of the cop car for about 3 minutes. He then emerged with a wrapped parcel that looked similar to the shape of a human arm. He quickly threw it in the trunk on top of my bag and after a brief examination we saw blood and felt something frozen. Our conclusion is that it was a goat's leg, but one can't really be sure. Mostly, I was just nervous it would thaw and drip all over my bag, and that the stench mixed with the crazy driving would be too much for my tummy to handle. Lucky for us, after a shaky ride through the unfinished road we dropped the parcel off in Tepelene.
The gross package on top of my bag....
Surprisingly I had no stomach issues whatsoever, thought I kept my stomach full, and my mouth chewing on gum the whole time. My biggest complaint about the furgon is that I was sitting right next to a speaker that was blasting the loudest 90's and pop music you can imagine. I tried to drown it out with my iPod, and was partially successful after Adam kindly asked the driver to turn it down. What is it about this country and terrible music? Overall Led Zeppelin, McGuinness Flint, and Ryan Adams did a fantastic job of making the ride bearable, and pass quickly. It was ironic that on the way to Permet I talked with Scott and Robert about how when I drive I always want a good song playing in case I get in an accident, die, and it is the last song I ever hear. So many songs were perfect for this particular thought on the way home. Before I knew it we were home and heading to get some Jimmy's Pizza!
You can play this song at my funeral, as you dance around me while enjoying some IPA.  The thought that came to my head while I was scared of dying in a furgon crash on the way home: "I don't want no one to mourn beside my grave."

1 comment:

  1. I loved reading this and hearing what you guys got up to. And that song is perfect.

    ReplyDelete