"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
- Mark Twain

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Ohrid, Macednoia


I spent this weekend in beautiful Ohrid, Macedonia. It was such a fantastic weekend that I should warn you in advance that the length of this blog will be insane.


We woke up early on Friday morning and were out of Tirana before 7am. We headed up in the mountains for the ride or our lives. Scott was a great driver, however the other people were not the best drivers in the world and there were a few times I was worried we would be run off the road and die falling down the mountainside. The car cost us only 21 Euros person, including insurance in 2 countries, so it was quite the deal. We stopped twice to take some pictures, and once to pee.
First view of Ohrid just before the boarder crossing
Cortney did some research about things to do while we were there and discovered a great hike to a 14th century church in Vishni, called the cave of St. Spas. Apparently single girls would pilgrimage there to be blessed to find a husband (I wasn't blessed, so I don't think I'll find one.) Once we got across the boarder we tried to navigate our way with Bobby's trusty GPS. Unfortunately it doesn't really recognize roads, so we got a bit lost. We stopped to ask several people "Vishni?" with a puzzled look on our faces. Luckily on the back of a mud road in the middle of some farms we ran into a man who spoke German and one of our 5-person crowd was able to speak to him. We eventually arrived in Vishni and found a parking spot. The hike was one of the most beautiful short hikes I've ever been on. I don't think we went far, but it felt like something out of Lord of the Rings. After living in a city that hardly has grass and trees for the last 2 months this hike was heaven. We spent about 20 minutes at the church (we needed a breather after the steps) and headed back to drive into Ohrid.
Such a pretty deserted building.

At the beginning of the hike. Check out how happy I am about the grass!

Check out the amazingly clear water
and mountain view!
Our hostel was located in Old Town, which we hardly left all weekend. There were beautiful cobblestone, curvy roads, old looking houses, fresh vegetation, and beautiful view of Lake Ohrid. We arrived and immediately had some delicious food at Sveta Sofia, including trout, stuffed peppers, Macedonian salad, and creamy chicken. The restaurant was located right next to the church of St. Sophia. Our hostel was inexpensive and comfortable for the 5 of us. It included a balcony with a view overlooking the lake. We ventured off to find the beach and watch the sunset. This of course included a  coffee and a bottle of wine. After we had finished our bottle of wine we ended up in the slightly touristy area to purchase some postcards and simply walk around. We became a bit famished and stop at a restaurant to split some pizza and dessert, which ended our first night in Macedonia.

Macedonian flag and a view from the Fortress




The second day began with a hike to find some breakfast. We ended up at Sveta Sofia again, for salty pancakes, fruit salad, and some eggs and bacon. After filling up we were ready for our day of sight seeing. Our hike began at the upper gate and headed to the King Samoil Fortress. We paid a whopping 60 cents to get in and saw some spectacular views. We spent a bit hiking on the top of the Fortress and taking pictures of all the views. I purchased myself a Ohrid Pearl necklace with matching earrings for 20 Euro.
St. George church
We continued on a beautiful hiking trail with plenty of trees and grass to St. George Church. Hiking felt so fantastic that we just kept exploring paths until we ran into St. Clements University. Here, they have dug up some very old archways, have preserved them, and are currently building a University around them. We were able to enter the church for a few minutes of silence. At this point, we were quite warm and decided to test out the water at the beach. It was too cold for our bodies, but sticking my feet in felt quite refreshing. We had a late lunch of salads, honey pork, lamb in a pot, and a veggie dish at Damar.

Walls around Old Town
We still hadn't found the wall that was built around the city. Rumor had it that you could hike on top of it around the whole city. After a bit of searching we found it and began hiking. Part way through it became just woods, and there wasn't much to see, so we turned around and headed back to the hostel to change into our warmer clothes. The temperature difference between the day and the night was quite large, and pants and a jacket were necessary after the sun set.The first night of sunset watching was so good that we headed to the beach to do the same thing. Unfortunately the service was so terrible that by the time the sun was down we had been served so we just left to go to Sveta Sofia for dessert and wine. I highly recommend their sexy salad. It was incredible. Malwine had visited a traditional Macedonian store and we thought we should have a quick look in the touristy part of the city one more time. Afterward we headed to the Jazz club for some fancy drinks and delightful music. The live music didn't start until midnight and we were too tired to last until then, so we headed home for bed.

The following morning we ate some more delicious breakfast at Sveta Sofia and then headed home in our car. The trip home consisted of a stop to look at the bomb shelters, a stop for some ice cream, and a whole lot of car sickness.
Sunset on the first night
Overall I would say that this was one of the best vacations of my life. Especially considering the time (3 days, the company (4 wonderful people,) the weather, and the cost (only about 120 Euro including souvenirs.) It was relaxing and the perfect amount of time to spend in one place.

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