We started off the morning with breakfast at the hostel.
Majda (yes we were on first name basis with our hosts) cooked us some delicious
fried squash on top of some bread. However, it wasn’t just any fried squash. It
was in some delicious garlic sauce. After our coffee, we were able to pull the
crew together to “kick it!” Bata introduced us to his girlfriend, or better
named as a pimped out, sometimes 25 passenger van. There are only 9 seats, but
he said one time in the heat of the summer he managed to cram 25 people in
using stools, and allowing wives to sit on husband’s laps.
The tour began in the van as we listened to some music to “wake
us and shake us.” Then we stopped just around the corner and listened to Bata
talk for about an hour about the war in Mostar, his life, and the most
interesting part for me, the politics of Bosnian beer.
I’ll summarize:
During the war, Croatia and Serbia claimed that the border lines of their
country were right were the river in the center of Mostar is. Though Bosnia is
now a free country, the Croats still lay claim to one side of the river. If you
go into a bar on that side of the river they will only serve Croatian beer. It
made me feel quite bad that I enjoyed the beer I had the previous night, but I
vowed to give the Bosnian beer a chance.
After some more stories about the war and Bata’s personal
life (you just have to experience them yourself) we headed out. Bata showed us
some various items around the city. Places of controversy, places of
importance, and some places that were just completely crazy. After this brief
tour of the city, we headed out for the “real tour.” He first asked, if anyone
wanted to be returned to the hostel, but none of us did.
The first stop was to get lunch. We got to watch a few
ladies make Bosnian Byrek, which was soooooooo much better than the Albanian
version, though also very different, and thus impossible to compare. Arielle
and I split the minced meat “slice” and a piece of potato.
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| cooking my lunch |
We then headed to Blagaj to visit a very small village where
Bata’s parents grew up. There was a surge of water, and Bata explained that
though people have tried to find out where the water comes from it is still a
complete mystery. Here there is also a mosque, which we were lucky enough to
visit. It was my first time in a mosque and though the gender inequality makes
me a bit mad, I’m glad I got to have the experience. Bata explained that the
mosque used to be used as a house, and explained many of the traditions. We
also discovered that the house is also a Dervish house, which is too complicated
and weird for me to even explain. While looking at the only remaining original
ceiling in the house I grew incredibly fascinated for some reason. I felt in a
trance. Eventually, after several minutes Bata got up and moved to leave the
mosque, and we also followed lagging a bit behind. Then Bata told us the rumor
that if you make a wish, drink the water from the river, and never tell anyone
that it will come true. And that is just what I did. I bent down, made a wish,
and though it still hasn’t come true I’m not going to tell you what it was.
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| Dervish House/Mosque/Rushing River |
After this experience, us North Americans were ready for a
drinky drink, so we grabbed a beer and hit the road once again. This time to
head to the Las Vegas of Bosnia. Apparently about 30 years ago there were a
group of 4 teenagers up on a hill in this tiny village with 4 houses. The story
goes that while there they saw an apparition of the virgin Mary. Ever since
then, people have been coming from all over (mainly Ireland and Italy) to
pilgrimage to the top of the hill. Apparently it is the 3rd largest
pilgrimage in the world. The village has grown into a place with thousands of
souvenir shops, a few large shopping centers, 5 star motels, and large Beverly
Hills-like houses in a matter of 30 years. Everything looks brand new. One of
the teenagers still claims that she speaks with and talks to the virgin Mary
everyday, and everyone has stuck with the story that was originally presented.
This is crazy!
Next came the part of the trip that I was the most excited
for: the waterfall. It didn’t live up to my expectations, mostly because I just
had to change them. It was still a wonderful experience and one I was so glad I
could have. Usually, people get to cliff jump off of a waterfall. Unfortunately
we came during the wet season, so the water is much higher than normal, and it
is impossible to get to the part of the secret path that Bata usually takes
people to, so, we had to improvise. The sight of the large waterfall was enough
to make me happy, but I also had come with the intention of cliff jumping, so I
was cliff jumping. We walked up and around to a restaurant, and we climbed on
top of the restaurant to jump into the large waterfall, and rushing water.
Several men were fishing and looked at us in a strange way as we undressed and
climbed to the roof. Robert and me decided to go together, because we love
doing things together. It was cold, but not any more so than the other water we
had jumped into before.
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| Kravice Waterfalls |
I swam to the surface and out of the water to be followed in
by 2 other girls. We all dried off and listened to Bata tell us about how happy
we had made him. The fishermen commented on how crazy we were, and we were
happy to leave.
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| Apparently I'm crazy. Who knew? |
Next up were the shots of Rakia. I’ve tried the Albanian
Raki and it sucks. This stuff still sucked, but was much better. Usually it tastes similar to a fruity
gross syrup, but this had some different spices in it and tasted much
healthier, if that makes any sort of sense.
After we were warmed by the rakia we headed to a 15th
century fortress. This was quite the culture experience because the place was
empty except for 3 houses that are still occupied. Not only did we get to hear
the call to prayer in the middle of nowhere, but we also got to climb up a
tower. Even more important is that we got to visit a quiet old lady in the
village who served us Bosnian coffee, fresh and dried fruit from her garden, and
delicious baked apple pancakes. We also got to partake in a syrup tasting
contest including sage, elder flower, and pomegranate syrup. We offered her a
little bit of money for her trouble and were finally on our way home.
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| Počitelj Villiage |
Once home we took a quick break from our lives to regroup
from the emotional and life changing experience of the tour. Then we needed
some real Bosnian beer. We took the recommendation of our hosts and headed out
for dinner in old town. It was delicious. I shared octopus salad, shark chops,
and trout. After a good beer, followed by a bad beer we were ready to go home.
I had no idea when I left for the spring break how much I
would learn about the history of Bosnia and the Balkans. Life is crazy.
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